Stewart Island deel 1

North west circuit (anti clockwise) day 1.

First things first. Arrange the huts at the Dartment of Conservation, sign a intentions from, get rescue dates, a name and nr in case of.. and arrange a Personal Locator Beacon. 
A PLB works on GPS and if pressed on, it will send out the location to police and ambulance. It Will simply tell the destination of the beholder and that it is in danger. 

I don't think and certainly hope I do not need to use it, but you never know.. And it's better to have one if you are hiking on your own. 

The day starts not the way i like it. The doc isn't open the time I expected it to be due to winter schedule.. No worries, i'll go for a Nice breakfast while I still can! 
When everything is finally plannend arranged and done, I leave my last things that i don't need behind in locker nr 1. Good they don't give a key, I might loose it on the track. 

A bit nervess and full of excitement I leave Oban. My legs wrapped in gaiters, my big heavy backpack on, Beacon around my waist and off we go. You can do it girl, kick that ass! 
The sun shines and climbing up hill is making it a sweatie start. And this is only the normal road. As i finally enter the first part of the real track i'm thinking of what Will come.. The backpack Will loose a bit of it's weight every day, but on the other hand the track will get harder to walk on.. 
Beautiful beach on my right and a big statue of a chain tells me i'm at the real beginning of the track. Yiha! 

I'm spotting for birds, this is the island for it! And the big ones around the boat when I came to the Island, my gosh!! Albatros? Fuck that's big! And as I look up I see my first friend.. The Tui bird... It's spelled different, but I like using the beer that is named after this bird. 
A couple of ladies pass me.. I saw them in the backpackers place already, they look really fit, but also with a lot of make up on.. Oh foolish. Americans.. Not my cup!  Strange to my opinion. We chat a little and off they are.. Probably in a rush, the poles they use go quick up and down..

As I move on and watching the map, i'm starting to wonder where that hut is... I've walked the beach, did the walkbridge... Shouldn't it be here right now?
A T section comes up and I wonder... The blue piles could be regering to Williams hut... And that path is going down, and as I rememberd from seeing the pictures, the hut should be down at the beach. And I don't see other signs... Let's do it. 

A horrible up and down and over grown path is in my way. This Goes on and on and on.. I start yelling at my self, why you stupid woman? Oh why? If this is only the beginning what the hell is in front of me... "Don't be such a pussy", I rememberd Kevin saying this to me and I'm sure he would say it to me now too.
I saw an orange sign again but it leaded to no where and looked like it haven't been used for a long long time.. As going back was not a good plan coming this far, i decided to keep on following this horrible blue track. Tried to make fun out of it instead of irritations. Every where I didn't know where to place my foot, I simply glided down on my bum, making it a mini rollercoaster effect. 
It felt like there was no end, or it would lead me to the second hut, wich would take me an other 3 or 4 hours.. Not really looking forward to that, but I have no choice, keep going girl!

Hunger comes up, an oat/chocolat bar Goes in my mouth.. It's as re-deiscovering how the body works, it gives me Suddenly so much energie, and BAM! Off i go again, and fast..

A sign comes up: Port Wiliam Campsite. Campsite? Fuck! Wait, hold on, go on, walk a little further. And yes there it was...

As I meet one of the DOC hut carer, I tell him About the blue signs.. "Oh no, he says, that's horrible.. That's an old track for die hard tramping training! And so old, must be overgrown... " 
Now THAT explaines it all!! 
The hut is big but the dorms are seperated from the 'living room' where the heater is at. Other trampers are here too. First things first, before it gets to dark, change the clothes, find a bunk, roll out the sleepingbag and make diner! 
Diner: instant potatoe leek soup, some walnuts, and half an avocado. For drink, water and a full thermobottle of tea. 

It's getting dark now, it's only 18:30. Time for resting after i've finished my tea. 
Oh before I forget, so i did : Oban to Williams Port Hut 12 km from 12:00- 16:30 from wich is 45 min detour due to my eyes wanting to follow blue (WRONG!!!) signs. 

Oh and I forgot to write who's in the hut? Two kiwi girls (middel age) doing The Great walk ( that is a smaller, easier trip of four days and other huts except for this one). A young German girl ( dsie sjermans arr hier AGAIN!) A Canadian girl that has lived and worked here for at least a year and had an offer to stay.. Fun girl by the way. And then, two German boys (ser we go again!) who are doing the north west circuit too. 
I already start to wonder how, because they only have one half full gas bottle for both of them and all of that for 12 days... 

The dissapearing of day light and living by candle light makes me go to bed early. And because every one is so excited to see kiwi's, I come back to the room and tell them I've just seen one outside. JUMP AND EVERYONE GET's up and rushes outside.. And when i crowl down in my sleepingbag i start laughing!!! And a soft and Sneeky voice says: "stupid sjermans! " hahaha

As midnight moon shines over Port Wiliams hut i wake up for a wee. As I stand on the veranda i spot something near the Bush, I can't believe it, my first night and a fluffy white tail deer is looking at me. It's starring for a minute and then jumps of. Wauw! That was awsome! As proud as a KID I tell everyone that has wolken up do a baby that cried ( Doc carer was here on holiday with his wife, running kids and poor sick baby) 
But I Guess They don't believe me anymore... 

Day 2..
Breakfast:
1 banana, fluid nutrygrain (Weird!!) 4,5 mini sesame toast with salmon spread. 
That should do it. Off to Bungaree hut! 
Heaps of mud and the weight on my back makes me wobly.. So in the beginning I struggeld a bit and fell on my Side  a couple of times. The climbing does not make it better. But as I found myself a wooden stick, I'm aible to pull myself up much easier. 
As expected the two Sjermans boy stress passed me. Oh my, the first part wasn't easy, but i've started to notice on every hike or run I do that the beginnings make me slow. My real pace comes further on the track and is faster. 
I got a bit tired so I took a rasberry/ white chocolat oatbar, wow that changed me in a fast fox! A bit of water and a cup of tea. And just around the corner was a beautiful beach! I tried to make a photo from within the bushes, unfortainetly I see a boat, Well, I'll just move my cam, pretend it's not there. 
As I arrive on a bigger longer beach, more a Bay, Incantatie see a hut on the Hill. Cool spot! And the sun is shining, It's only 12:30 ( started at 09:15, so I did Well) and i'm staying here tonight! Yeah all the day, easy and watching the waves! 
I sign the book and Add a note: beautiful beach, and Nice to be alone! Now, get your ass to Work, I need to collect wood for the fire. I take one of the buckets and dissapear in the bush. Proud and happy with a Bucket full I enter the house and then suddenly... "Hello". "Oh hello, where did you just came from?" 
6 hunters, all kiwi, older ages, Berry, Mark, Mark-o/Tomo  Peter/fox, brad, AndGuy. One of them is already drink at 17:00.. Hmm.. Hope this Goes Well...

Lunch: half avocado, mini toast with a small can of teriyaki chicken and tea. And in the mean time, the hunters collected more wood! 

Alone? You stupid woman, I tell myself.. Not at all. As it turns out, the boat I saw, was from a goup hunters. They tried to get in to the Bay with a dingy, but due to the big wafes they couldn't get to the hut with all their gear.. All their gear....and there it Goes my alcohol free days... 
Hope I make it tomorrow.. 6 hours walk.. Scared a little bit.. 
Diner:
Half a instant curry Thai , a carrot and some almonds. 
Later the hunters added half a sausage and two beers.

A german girl and a franchie boy come in. Big walkers, they started at the top of north Island and went all the way down to this Island walking.. Some though ones! Funny the Germs are always the only one without gaiters and this girl ( looks more like a farm cow) is even wearing shorts...  But all good company. 
Some youngster germies come in as Well.. Too boring and not social at all.. A fun night at Bungaree With the hunters and early Morning too. Gosh, it's so beautiful out here. Waking up is with the sunrise.. Mostly red coloured. 
Stupidly I've cut my finger nails just before I left, but forgot my toe nails.. And my cutter. I get to borrow one and then all is fine.. Although my left nail is a bit sensitive. 

Day 3
Breakfast:
Nutri grain drink, teas, banana and some sesame mini toast. 
Hunters, rumours, noisy... AND .., A sweet. Seal swimming in front of the hut. I collected one of the hunters phone and email, might do some experience in diary farming... Might see them again. 
But off I go! 

This Seems so much easier then the track before... 'But, Belle, you never know  what's around the corner, don't push your Luck..' I don't know why but I keep telling this to myself. My eye starts to feel weird.. 
The track gets steep and i hear waves, that means the beach is almost there! That means 1/3 done! I meet The heavy trampers again (big Germ girl and little frenchie) they just had a swim! Dare devils.. But i'm a bit cold and only swim when i'm finished. ( Well to be honest Berry scared me off with stories About all the white sharks that are here. Brr.. Oh Silly City Girl....)

The couple leaves and i've just put on some more repellent against the sandflies. My eye hurts more then before and starts tearing. Dam.. I can't touch it now that my hands have repellent on.. 
It's probably just nothing, it Will go away... Just cry it out girl. 
At Maori beach I had lunch: a small tuna can, manderin, tea and some water. 

After Maori beach i felt my left big toe more often during the track. Specificly when walking down.. Oh no.... I keept telling myself that it's JUST sensitive, it did not come off the flesh ( fuck it feels like it!) i can't put my self down and looking at the foot is probably not nessecery. Keep going Ginger! 
I laugh at my self and I look at the mud in front of me. You'll learn during the track to know where to walk and to Find out how deep the mud is. Funny enough, there is a soft grey mud place in front of me and before I know it my leg immediatly dissapears into the sand! As it reaches the top of my upper thie, I lift up my body with all the strenght I have and using two wooden poles. I got out Whoehahahhahaha... Fuck that was deep! I made a picture of my trousers.. Funny... 

I get sick of my eye, it's swollen up now and i can hardly see. Somthing's in there and i don't know what but it hurts like some one is poking into my eye. As my vision gets worse, the focus on the track gets harder. I can't see where to place my foot, theres tree roots every where! And then BANG! AAAAH FUCK NO NONONONO OH BOLLUCKS! Grrrrr! Stupid woman! 
i scream a bit but it won't help as I know and so i get myself together and keep following the track. As the pain of both my eye and my foot gets worse I feel like a weak little lam and I hate it. And then stupid woman hormones come up, My Brain decides to think back About almost a year ago. I had my worst holiday ever and i feel so Sad, that I've felt that way.. And it GET's even worse when I realise that I can't remember a single moment of  true happiness at that holiday. My other eye starts to cry too. Fuck i feel shit! 
You won't I believe it, but that moment i hit my toe again, i get out of balance and land on my back at the backpack AND in the ice cold water! I don't fucking care! I'm so done with tears! Let them come out all ar once.. As if i'm a waterval, wet every where, crying, this time out of both tears, and a running nose... 
But i get up quickly, start walking, cause it's not good to get wet and cold. I should be there almost... 
" are you ok?" Oh no... People behind me.. The youngsters .. With a monster eye, snot and tears everywhere i respond: " yes..." 

Yes???? I must be nuts!  

.. It's just... It's ... My toe.. Somethings wrong. And my eye.. It's stupid... Infected and i'm crying... Because... Because..... Emotions... " 
" don't worry we'll stay behind you, in case you need help, isn't it better to go back?" " no no, back? You idiot, we are almost there! I just have a bad day!" And with bouncing pain in my whole body I start walking. I even go faster then before... And I can't help to think how stupid we woman Work... So when there is tough moments, suddenly other emotions come in too while they have nothing, nothing to do with the event that just happend.. What the fuck is that for?
I think that's not fair! I hate it!  Can I be a boy now... Please?! I 

I'm not a weak person, i'm strong... Why the F did I cry so loud?
As we finally enter the hut, on a stony short beach i see the name of the hut: Christmas hut.. Oh yeah.. Hello memory, fuck you to stupid Christmas did I invites Christmas too? Fuck me what a party! 
One of the boys I've met earlier in the first hut is there and Greets me. As he  looks at my face, he says: "... You don't have to say anything.." "Yeah... Ah.. But... " and Inside i feel a bit better he told me that. So slowly I start taking out the wet shirts and change them for dry one. My shoes... Scared to take it off, but i have to... But first i need wood. There's not much, even though there are people in the hut already... Are they all lazy? Well I can tell they are all cold.. So off we go outside again. Collecting and Chopping wood. What a ....F ..... Ers..., they could help stupid Germs! 

Ok Eat... Foot... First aid.. It does not, and I repeat it to myself does NOT look good. I clean the wound as far as possible, and put some bandage over it. What to do....? 
Ok plan 1: get sleep, see how it is tomorrow. 
The eye I can handle.. But if I wake up with an eye that doesn't open, then I Will make other plans. 
Plan 2: tape it in, get it back in the shoe and walk further. Look at options incase it gets worse.. Or just handle the pain, it might go away. 
Plan3; one bare foot? No, mud Will easily infect the wound.. Or sandflies.. Not a good idea. 
Plan 4: tape it in, walk back, see if the hunters can get me half way with the boat... There is a  couple walking that way, early, they could warn them. 
And stay there for the night, see if they can bring me away the next day back to Williams and walk to the beginning of the track where the road starts again and get a taxi.. 
Plan 5: stay in this hut for another day rest, and then go further. Means: have to skip one of the huts, so one walk Will be double as time.. 
Plan 6: use Beacon... No not for a sore toe... There might be people in life treathing danger.
Plan 7: rip the nail off, it might be walking better..... I Guess i'm too scared to do that. 

Weather is everyday a surprise... I'm not looking forward to 1 walk with a sore foot, 2 with half a vision and 3 if weather GET's worse, i'm more in trouble then now. 

I tell me plans to the English couple. Before we go to bed the boy tells me that  plan 5 is not 's good idea.. Everyone Will leave tomorrow, and if I do need help, I would be compleetly on my own.. His idea is to go anyway, as long as it is to an other hut. 
The couple Will be up early and wants to know what my plan is. I tell them to wake me in case I might sleep when they get up. 

Day 4
A hard and cold night in the Christmas hut. The Morning comes, finally.. All my mind says is Savety... Make a save choice this time, not a choice of what you want. 

I want to finish but I choose for savety. I could get other people in danger if they need to assist or help me further on the track. And going further means, longer walks, going back is only two huts and a  12 k to town. 

I tell the English couple i'm going back. I Add a few hours on the 6 hours the walk says because of my foot. I should be back there at least at 5 pm. If i'm not there, tell the hunters to look out for me! If I can't go further but manish to get to the beach, then i'll stay there and see if they can get me with the boat. 

Knowing that I won't need so much any more i give one of my gas bottels to the boys, some vitamines, fruit and little Rice cans. They look very happy with it. 
Now the though moment.. Fitting in my shoe. ..the quicker, the better.... I did put a wood stick between my teeth! 
And off i go..